You sit in your car, turn the key, and all you hear is a clicking sound. Just yesterday, the car was working okay. This is a common issue that is usually connected with a faulty ignition system. Although it is a problem, it is solvable, so stay calm.
The most common cause for this issue is a faulty battery. It could be empty, or the corroded connectors are failing to deliver current. If the battery is okay, a broken ignition switch, faulty starter engine, or problem with the ignition relay can cause this problem. There are also cases when a bad ground wire will cause this problem.
Since there are a lot of possible causes, we will go through them all and analyze them. That includes thorough testing of the components, identifying the problem, and finding any underlying issues. That way, we will minimize the chance of missing the problem altogether. Stay with us and resolve this pestering issue today.
Understanding the Issue: Car Clicks But Won’t Start
To understand why the car clicks but won’t start, you need to understand how the ignition system works and what are its main parts.
Overview of A Car’s Ignition System
The function of the ignition system is to ignite the air-to-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. These are the main parts of the ignition system:
- The battery. It provides the electrical current that starts the engine.
- The ignition switch. The ignition activates all the main electrical components in the car.
- The ignition coil. It enlarges the voltage delivered by the battery to levels needed to create an electrical spark.
- The distributor. The task of the distributor is to distribute high-voltage electricity from the ignition coil to the spark plugs.
- The spark plugs. They ignite the air and fuel mixture in the combustion chamber.
Weak/Dead Battery: Main Culprit Behind Clicking Sounds
A car battery supplies the car with electrical current, including the car’s ignition system. A bad battery often causes problems with the ignition. One of the most common symptoms of a weak battery is a clicking noise after turning the ignition on.
There are a couple of symptoms that can help you identify a problem with the battery. If you notice them on time, you can avoid a problem like ending up in the middle of nowhere with a dead battery.
Signs of a Weak or Dead Battery
- The lights are dim. When you turn the engine on, the next thing you do is turn on the lights. If they are not glowing brightly like usual, but the light is dim, then the battery can be the culprit.
- The engine is cranking slowly. If when revving up the key, you notice a slow, long crank, that means that the battery is dying.
- You need to press the gas to start the car. If you need to press the gas when turning the ignition, then it is time to get a new, healthy battery.
- You hear a clicking noise when starting the car. If this happens, you won’t be able to start the car and will need the help of jumper cables.
- The smell of sulfur around the car. If the battery is old or swollen, it will leak its internal battery acid. This acid emits a strong scent of sulfur. If you notice this issue, replace the battery as soon as possible. An acid leak can cause damage to other engine parts, which will raise your repair bill.
- Swollen battery case. If the battery inside its compartment becomes bloated, that means that it is full of hydrogen gas. This is not repairable, and you will need a new battery.
You can do a quick check of the battery with the battery charger. But, there are cases when the battery charger says that the battery is full, but the car still won’t start. The cause for this can be corroded terminals, loose connections, or a power drain.
Easy Tests To Confirm Battery Health
Do a simple checkup with a multimeter.
- Turn off the car, and secure it with a parking brake.
- Remove the covers from the battery terminals.
- Set the multimeter to measure volts.
- Connect the positive multimeter pin to the positive (red) battery terminal.
- Connect the negative multimeter pin to the negative (black) battery terminal.
- Check the multimeter readout. A healthy battery will show 12.4 to 12.7 volts.
- If the readout is slightly below these values, that means that the battery is slightly discharged.
- If the multimeter shows 10 volts or less, that indicates that the battery is dead.
Before checking the battery with the multimeter you can do a visual checkup. Inspect the connections for corrosion. Take a look at the battery cables. They can be damaged or uninsulated. If you don’t notice anything strange, then grab a multimeter and test the battery.
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Starter Motor Failures
The starter motor is an electric motor that cranks the engine up to start. It is made of two components, a powerful DC motor and the starter solenoid. The starter is powered with power from the battery. If the starter motor fails, the engine cannot start.
Symptoms of a Failing Starter Motor
Rarely does the starter stop working all of a sudden. Usually, that is preceded by several symptoms:
- The engine won’t start. You turn the ignition switch but you only hear the clicking sound.
- You hear strange noises. If when starting the car you hear clinking, grinding, or whirring sounds that can be a sign of a dying starter.
- After turning the ignition key you only get lights on the dashboard. That can point to other problems, like poor battery connection, but often a starter is the underlying issue.
- Smoke is coming from the engine compartment. The starter is prone to overheating. When that happens you will notice smoke coming from under the hood.
Do not ignore these symptoms. If you notice and address them soon, you can save the starter from completely failing.
How Failure Contributes To a Car Not Starting
The starter’s primary motor turns the crankshaft and starts the engine. The starter’s solenoid engages the drive gear of the starter closing the main motor electrical connections. If either of these components fails, the car will not start.
How To Check If A Starter Is Faulty?
If the starter is not working, you should first inspect the vehicle battery. The battery voltage should be between 12.4 and 12.7 volts. Also, check the condition of the battery cables and terminals. If the problem with the starter is followed by the dim signal lights, then the underlying cause is usually a weak battery.
If the battery is healthy then you should test the starter control circuit. Turn the ignition on, but do not start the engine. Use the multimeter to measure the voltage at the starter solenoid control terminal. If there is no voltage at the terminal, then the problem is in the starter control circuit. If there is voltage, then the problem is in the starter motor.
Faulty Ignition Switch
The ignition switch, together with the ignition lock cylinder works together to turn on and start the car. Since the ignition switch is used every time you want to start the car, it can wear out in time. These symptoms are associated with a faulty ignition switch:
- The car is stalling. If the ignition switch fails while driving it may cut off power to the fuel and ignition systems, resulting in stalling.
- You cannot turn on the car. When turning the ignition on, you can hear the clicking sound.
If you are noticing these symptoms, or you are having trouble with turning or removing the key from the ignition, check the ignition switch.
Steps for a Basic Ignition Switch Check
A simple and precise test of the ignition switch requires a multimeter.
- Remove the casing covering the switch. It is located below the steering wheel. Once you remove it you will be able to access the metal connectors at each end of the switch.
- Set the multimeter to measure DC voltage at a range of 20 volts. Ground the black (negative) probe on any metal part of the car. Position the red (positive) probe on any ignition switch metal connectors.
- Turn the ignition to the ON position, but do not start the car. Check the measurement on the multimeter. The reading on the ignition switch should be similar to the voltage of the battery. Most batteries are 12 volts, so if the multimeter shows around that value, that is okay. If the readout is 0, or some other high or low value, the ignition switch is bad.
Corroded Battery Terminals
Battery corrosion shows up like a white and blue or green substance on the battery terminals or cables. Battery corrosion is toxic and should be addressed carefully. Dangerous battery acid fumes can irritate your skin or eyes if left unprotected. When handling the battery use protective goggles and gloves. If you got in touch with the acid, rinse the skin with water.
The common reasons for corrosion to build up are:
- Battery overcharging. If the battery is overcharged that will raise the temperature inside it. The battery has safety vents that allow the battery fluid to escape to avoid explosion. If it leaks from these vents that can cause a corrosion.
- Damage to the battery. If the battery is physically damaged or cracked, that can cause the fluid to leak. That leak can cause corrosion.
- Contact with the copper clamps. If sulfuric acid gets in contact with the copper clamps it will cause a chemical reaction. The copper sulfate from that reaction will result in corroded battery posts.
- The battery is old. The average lifespan of a battery is 5 years. As your battery comes to the end of its life it is not unusual to see corrosion.
In case you replaced a starter, and the battery is fine, then something else is causing problems. Check the ignition relay, and the ignition switch, or a problem could be with a ground wire. Before you start replacing parts, do a detailed test to diagnose which part is the problem. If you start blindly replacing parts, that can cost you a lot of money, leaving you with unresolved problems.
Impact of Corrosion on Battery Performance
Corroded battery terminals can lower the battery’s power output. Corrosion can cause damage to the battery cables. If the cables are damaged then electrical components will have problems with the power supply.
The corrosion will also cause the rise of resistance in connections, resulting in a decrease in power output. If the battery cannot provide enough power to all the systems, that will take a toll on the car’s functionality.
Easy Cleaning Methods
Removing corrosion is an easy task that is doable at home. If you decide to do it you will need to gather some supplies:
- A stainless steel wire brush
- Battery terminal cleaner spray or baking soda
- A supply of clean water
- Clean microfiber cloth
- Pliers and a wrench
- Gloves and safety goggles
Before you start doing anything, turn off the car and lift the safety brake. This task is simple, and the most important thing is to follow the instructions and pay attention to safety:
- Disconnect the battery cables. Put the gloves on and disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal first. For this, you will need a plier and a wrench. Usually, the cable is black, and it is marked with a “NEG” sign. Place the wrench on the negative terminal and turn it counterclockwise until you loosen it. Completely remove the terminal and push it to the side. Then, remove the positive red cable. Use this opportunity to check the condition of the cables. If you notice any sign of wear and tear, replace them
- Remove the corrosion. For extra safety, use the goggles. If you want to use baking soda, you need to mix it with water and make a paste. Spray the cleaner or add the paste to the corrosion. If this is not doing the trick, use a wire brush to scrub off the corrosion. Once you have removed the corrosion rinse the battery and terminals with water
- Dry the battery. Use a dry microfiber cloth to completely remove any leftover water. Leave the battery to dry off completely
- Reconnect the battery cables. Once you are sure that the battery is dry, reconnect the cables in the same way you remove them. Do not overtighten them because you will have a hard time removing them next time.
Ground Wire Issues
A ground wire is a common cause of several electrical issues in the car. If you hear a clicking noise, but the car won’t start, checking the ground can save you a lot of money and time.
Why Are Ground Wires in Car Ignition Important?
The ground cable connects the car battery negative terminal to the chassis of the car. It works as a link between the car’s electrical system and the source of electricity. It completes the circuit, providing a constant stream of current.
The primary ignition coil winding connects the vehicle’s chassis with the ground. In return, it gets the current to flow through the engine’s control module. However, if the ground is bad, it will result in a reduced electrical current supply.
How To Spot Ground Wire Problems
If there are issues with the ground wire, then you will notice several problems while driving the car. The underlying cause for those problems is electrical issues:
- Failed ignition coil. The ignition coil converts the high current/low voltage electricity from the primary coil to a low current/high voltage in the secondary coil. A bad ground wire will decrease the amount of current that gets to the primary coil. That leads to a strain on the ignition system and the inability to start the car
- Lights are flickering or fainting. This is a common symptom of the bad ground wire. If, after checking, the ground is okay, then the halogen light bulb is faulty
- The fuel pump not delivering fuel. When a fuel pump completely fails and doesn’t deliver any fuel to the engine, that is a sign of bad ground. The cause for this is corrosion or loose contacts. But, there are a lot of symptoms that can point to a problem with the fuel pump before this happens. From this, we can conclude that the bad ground is a rare cause for a faulty fuel pump
- Periodic failure of the electrical devices and components. A bad ground strap can cause an occasional malfunction in one or more electrical systems. Electric windows, the AC, or other systems can stop working from time to time, as a result of a bad circuit connection
- AC compressor clutch not working. Once you notice that the AC is not working, that is a signal to check the AC system. The clutch coil is receiving power through a connector. If the connector is loose, the clutch will not receive enough electrical current to work. That will result in the compressor shutting down. But, before you blame bad ground for this issue, check if are there problems with the low-pressure lockout. Also, check the condition of the clutch coil
- Faulty sensors. There are a lot of sensors that monitor and control the work of several systems in the car. If the ground wire in any of those sensors is bad, they will not work as they should. Diagnosing bad ground in a sensor can be difficult. You will need tools, knowledge, and experience to check through the sensors. Sometimes a driver will find out about this issue once the car fails the emission test, as a result of a bad oxygen sensor
- ECU acting strangely. If the flow of current is inconsistent, then the ECU will have a hard time processing data. Those data are gathered so the car can maintain top performance. If the ECU is not working properly, it will misinterpret the data and that will lower car performance. Fuel consumption will rise, and the engine can start acting erratically. This is expected because the ECU is connected to every system in the car. The range of symptoms can vary, but it will be easy to spot and diagnose
- Damaged transmission cables. Both, automatic and manual transmission demands good ground to be able to properly switch gears. If the ground is bad it leads to a drop in power surge. That will have a long-term negative impact on the state of the transmission cables. If you notice problems while shifting gears, the cause for that can be damaged transmission cables. A bad ground will not only damage the cables but can inflict major damage on other parts of the transmission as well
- A dead battery. The ground wire connects the battery to the vehicle. If it is bad or loose it will prevent the alternator from delivering enough charge to the battery. That way the battery will drain faster, and eventually completely die
- Hard starting or no starting at all. The ignition process of the engine demands a closed current path to start properly. If there is a problem with the open circuit or with bad ground, that will end up with problems when starting the car. If the problem is severe, the engine won’t start at all.
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Relay Problems
The ignition relay is an electrical component that switches power to the car’s ignition and fuel systems. The relay is triggered by the turn of the ignition key. Then, the ignition relay allows those necessary systems to receive power, and to start the car’s engine. The battery sends power to the ignition coil which then sends power to the spark plugs.
If there are problems with the ignition relay, that can be followed by several symptoms.
Symptoms of a Faulty Relay in An Ignition System
- Problems with starting the car. The ignition relay delivers power to all necessary modules and sensors needed to start the engine. If the engine is not starting after the turn of the key, a faulty relay can be a culprit
- Engine stalling. The ignition relay provides power for crucial fuel system components like the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is not receiving power, that will cause problems like sudden stalling issues
- Dead or weak battery after a night. The relay should turn off the power supply to all electrical components when the car is not running. If the battery is losing power during the night that can mean that the relay is still supplying power to the components
- Signals on the dashboard are randomly flashing. If the relay has a corrosion problem, the connection inside it may become too narrow. That will lead to a bad connection, resulting in the ignition turning on and off quickly
- The smell of burned electronics. When there is an issue with a bad electrical connection, that can lead to a heating problem. If the wiring or electrical parts are under constant heat some parts of it will melt causing it to malfunction. As a result, the driver will notice a burnt smell in the cabin.
Easy Relay Fixes
The relay is made to last as long as the car. If it is not working properly then the only way to fix the issue is to replace it. If you want to be sure that the problem is in the relay, you can test it.
- Locate the relay. You can find the relay in most cases in the fuse box. Check the manual if you cannot locate it
- Check where every circuit flows into and out of the relay. All relays have 4 pins identified with the numbers printed on them. Power from the switch moves to pin 85, and from pin 86 to the chassis ground wire. That makes a complete circuit that activates the relay’s electromagnet. The magnet closes the second circuit in the relay that runs between pins 87 and 30. The high-amperage current from the battery enters the relay at pin 87. The current flow from the battery goes out to the component at pin 30 after the circuit is closed
- Remove the multimeter from the fuse box and grab a multimeter. Set the multimeter to measure DC voltage. Check if is there a 12-volt readout at the position of pin 85 in the fuse box. If there isn’t inspect the appropriate fuse. If it is blown, replace it
- Switch the multimeter to continuity mode. Inspect the ground connection for the slot where pin 86 connects to the fusebox
- Set the multimeter to DC voltage measuring. Inspect the pin 87 connection for voltage. If there isn’t then check the fuse
- Use the continuity mode to test the connectivity between the relay and the component. Place one multimeter lead to pin 30 and the second to the positive voltage connection point of the component. If the connection exists, then the problem is in the relay.
When to Seek Professional Help
If you checked the battery, the alternator, and the relay, and you still cannot locate the source of the problem, then you should contact a professional. Diagnosing these components requires a lot of expertise and experience. Even with all the goodwill, you may make a mistake or miss something.
If you are not into all this testing and messing with electricity, hire a mechanic right away. This problem is not easy to solve, so it is not a shame to leave it to the professionals.
Tips On How To Prevent Future ‘Click But Won’t Start’ Issues
Regular Maintenance
The best way to avoid almost all car issues is regular maintenance. Every car has its regular service intervals. Keep the service history neat and updated, so you can know when is the next time to visit the mechanic. Read the instruction manual for your car so you can know when you should check something.
Address Minor Issues Promptly
Regularly talk with your mechanic, and ask him to inspect if you are suspicious about a certain issue. If the mechanic detects something on time, it will be easier and cheaper to fix it. Do a periodic test with an OBD-II scanner to check for any errors. That is a great way to avoid major issues.
FAQs
Does a Faulty Alternator Make a Clicking Noise?
A faulty alternator can make a clicking noise. The usual sounds of a bad alternator are whining and whirring. But, if the alternator makes a clicking noise that can point to a problem with the alternator’s electrical connections.
What Did I Do When A Car Just Clicked and The Battery Was Fine and The Starter Was Already Replaced?
In case you replaced a starter, and the battery is fine, then something else is causing problems. Check the ignition relay, and the ignition switch, or a problem could be with a ground wire. Before you start replacing parts, do a detailed test to diagnose which part is the problem. If you start blindly replacing parts that can cost you a lot of money, leaving you with unresolved problems.
Final Thoughts
Fixing this issue can take a lot of time and nerves because there is a lot of stuff to check. Thankfully, the problem is usually the battery, but sometimes other parts of the ignition system are the issue. If you notice the symptoms on time, fixing them will be cheaper and simpler. There lies the importance of monitoring the work of the car.
As soon as you notice a problem with the lights or other electrical components, check the battery. If the battery is fine ask a mechanic to do an advanced check of the ignition. That way you can catch this problem on time, and save a lot of money.
